Showing posts with label Koh Phangan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Koh Phangan. Show all posts

Saturday, June 10, 2017

Dreaming about a Writing Retreat?


 
Dream writing spot
I've always dreamed of teaching at an exotic writing retreat. But for some reason my dream wasn't coming true by just sitting around waiting for someone to offer me free round-trip tickets to teach in Bora Bora.

Then I met writer and charismatic Renaissance man Brian Gruber, who happens to live in one of the most beautiful places I've been: the Thai island of Koh Phangan. Brian's the kind of guy who does crazy shit like travelling to Afghanistan, Iraq, Nicaragua (and other locales) without a predetermined itinerary or lodging, serendipitously finding places to stay and people to interview regarding how they feel about the U.S.'s military interventions in their countries. Such brazen actions led to his most recent book, WAR: The Afterparty.

Turned out he, too, had thoughts of running writing retreats--and after a few chats over meals, we set the wheels in motion.

Retreat Hosts
We decided to call it "Write Your Story in Paradise." Yes, "paradise" is a well-worn trope for tropical places, but in this case, it really fits. Check out this drone footage of the island:



Brian was able to score The Sanctuary, the best resort on the island. Think upscale bohemian with private beach, beautiful and unique accommodations, great food, yoga, meditation, and spa.

Lodging includes beautiful outdoor spaces.
And, incredibly, he was able to talk The Sanctuary into offering people 3 extra free nights if they sign up by June 15. That means, writers can arrive September 6 and just enjoy the resort until the workshops begin September 9-15.



Approaching The Sanctuary.

It was important to both of us that the experience be empowering, even transformational. As highlighted in our title ("Tell Your Story in Paradise"), Toni Morrison's words were our guide:

"If there's a book that you want to read but it hasn't been written yet, then you must write it."

We also wanted novice and experienced writers to be welcome. Fortunately, that's my wheelhouse. For years I've been teaching writing in university classes and workshops to diverse groups with all levels of experience, age, and backgrounds. I developed a program intended to inspire and instruct. Topics include:

* How to Believe in Your Writing
* Writing & the Unconscious
* Read Like a Writer
* Best Openings & Characterization
* Setting & Point of View
* Scene & Summary
* How to Keep Going



We're also offering 1:1 manuscript consulting, Reading Circles (where writers can share what they are working on), and plenty of time for reflection and discussion. Writers will also have lots of time to write. 
 
The Sanctuary restaurant
Developing this retreat has stretched me. I didn't know I was capable of creating such an experience. In fact, as much as I talked about wanting to do it, I think I feared dealing with the logistics and minutiae. Having great partners in Brian and Dave (who is a marvelous consultant on the project) makes all the difference.

But this is the most important thing: Saying yes, jumping off the cliff, and knowing that my wings will unfold. I've been learning that over and over again in our nomadic life. My brain surgery taught me that, too. And now I'm seeing this approach to life can work with other dreams as well.
 
Dave in the heavenly waters of Koh Phangan.
For more information about the retreat, check out our Facebook page or my website.
 

Saturday, March 4, 2017

Koh Phangan and Koh Tao: Thailand, Part 1 (and a little more of China, too)

 
 
Happy New Year
It's surreal to be in China with all that is happening in the U.S. Places of worship being burned? Refugees targeted? Immigrants banned? Russian intrigue? White nationalism? Whose country are we talking about?
 
I'm concerned about my friends who are complaining about physical illness as a result of the barrage of news. Don't make yourselves sick, you compassionate badasses and change-makers. We need you. As Krista Tippett writes in Becoming Wise, "We create transformative, resilient new realities by becoming transformed, resilient people."
 
And please don't apologize on social media for posting positive things. Life is multi-faceted. If we're going to be the change we want to see, we also need to be the light we want to see.
 
All of this makes me ultra-aware of how privileged I am to be able to travel freely. When the Spring Festival (Chinese New Year) break occurred, we hit the road with Tina (our Chinese "daughter") her friend Rose, our colleague Michele, and her husband, Joshua. As usual, everywhere we went, people wanted to take pictures with us. But Joshua--a Ugandan reggae artist--was the real star, especially with young guys who thought he was the coolest ever.

we real cool
A 4-hour bus ride from Nanning took us to Detian waterfall, billed as the fourth largest transnational waterfall. In the picture below, the left part of the falls is in Vietnam, and the right in China.




On the boat ride, we got close enough to feel the spray.
The next day we explored Tongling Grand Canyon, which felt like Pirates of the Caribbean, complete with multicolored lighting--proof that "cheesy" and "sublime" don't have to cancel each other out.

oxymoron
When we emerged from the cave, we faced a stunning sight: one of the tallest waterfalls in Asia.
 
And we hiked around the back of it.
After this two-day excursion, we did a quick turnaround at our apartment and headed out for a month to Thailand, by way of Malaysia. Flying through Kuala Lumpur turned out to be about half the price of a direct flight to Bangkok. Work it right, and Air Asia is so inexpensive; we spent only $300 on five flights.

First stop: Koh Phangan, a Thai island. Hard to argue with a place that looks like this:



To say it's stunning is to understate. As much as I enjoyed (for the most part) my semester teaching, I found it exhausting. This island was the perfect antidote. Dave's college buddy, Mark, met us there. It's a thrill to watch Mark's renaissance. He suffered from a major medical trauma, and has now bounced back and is living large. You can see in his eyes and hear in his ebullient patter a joie de vivre laced with his signature wit. We got right in the swing with lots of good island food...

Mark with a whole snapper.
and drink...
Yes, you can find shroom shakes in a place well-known for its raging Full Moon parties.
We also got to meet in the flesh Brian, one of my many Facebook pals. Currently living on Koh Phangan, he's a traveler and writer, too--and one of those great conversationalists who knows something about everything.

Brian ferrying me around on the island's most popular transport.
We didn't have much on our agenda other than a little exploring, cheap beach massages, yoga, and swimming. That is, until Mark roped us into checking out another part of the island for a dance party--in a place called "Eden," no less. A DJ, Mark is a music connoisseur, always in search of an inspired scene.

To get to Eden, you go by way Sanctuary. (Clearly, the names of these places are intended to lull you there--but they aren't misnomers.) There's no riding a motorbike to get to this part of the island; you must hop on a long tail boat. All able-bodied brawn is enlisted in helping shove it off the sand and into the waves.


Sanctuary is a spa resort with a beautiful open-air restaurant nestled in the rocky face of a cliff. We ate some of their delicious raw food specialties, watching the sunset. Mark chatted up a woman who was there from New York for a five-day cleanse. When he offered her some of his "happy fungus" shake, she eagerly broke her fast with a chug.

We made our way to Eden, shakily clambering up rocks along a crumbling path, our only light source my phone. A heroic ascent and descent revealed the scene of Mark's dreams: electronica on a cliff, waves roiling below, the dance floor lit up with psychedelic lights and a wide array of dancers, eccentric in movement and dress. We boogied for hours. My high came not from substances but this wild life. It was like dancing on another planet.


Eden
 
A few days later, we headed by inter-island ferry to Koh Tao. With lots of macho, tatted diver dudes walking around and a more touristy vibe, Koh Tao has a rougher edge. But soon I found a beautiful yoga studio nestled in the rainforest and a great place to have breakfast afterward, my feet in the sand.

Dave hung out underwater with a turtle while I did yoga.
And we enjoyed street food galore.

But the real sweet spot of Koh Tao is its world-class snorkeling. Mark treated us to a private boat for a full day, just the three of us with two Thai guys who knew all the great spots. It was heartening to see so much magnificent healthy coral and huge schools of multicolored fish.

 
Mark and me
Our pimped-up ride.
After two weeks, I wasn't ready to say goodbye to the islands. So I said "hasta luego"--as we had a plane to catch to Chiang Mai, the second largest city in Thailand--which I will share about soon.

In the meantime, I send my love to my friends in America and abroad. These are critical, historical times. As the Indigo Girls sing:

"If the world is night, shine my life like a light."


Koh Tao sunset